US Military Uniform Buttons Interesting Facts - MISCELLANEOUS / OTHER - U.S. Militaria Forum
dish fragments date from to and various buttons found date from the 's to early 20th Warren Tice, author of “Uniform Buttons of the United. Warren K. Tice book: "Dating Buttons" | Collectibles, Militaria, Civil War () | eBay!. Button shanks and back types page for the Button Country educational resource for button (7) Warren K. Tice - Dating Buttons, , Warren K. Tice, Publisher.
Used but in very good condition with dust cover. But included in these pages are over photos and illustrations, including bullet and cartridge specimens, 88 cartridge package labels and crates, arsenal buildings and city views, 94 maps showing arsenal locations, 90 bullet molds, 48 original documents, 31 portraits of ordnance personnel, 88 miscellaneous images of cannon, machinery, percussion caps, rifles and carbines, coins, patents, artillery projectiles and southern bank notes from the cities and towns that hosted C.
In addition, the names of thousands of brave men, women and children who labored as cartridge makers for "the Cause" are honored within. All 3 Volumes Sold Out!!!
This is a thoroughly researched and documented study of the Bowie Knife, from when it first made its appearance in the course of a brawl on a Mississippi River sandbar near Natchez, Mississippi in on through the Mexican War, the California Gold Rush, the American Civil War and beyond! Profuse with color photos of the knives and other artifacts, as well as copies of old photos of men carrying the Bowie Kife.
A must have for anyone interested in this legendary American blade! Nicely arranged with sections covering the uniform accouterment of the British, American and French forces of the American Revolution.
DATING BUTTONS- by WARREN K. TICE (One of only 500 Copies) RARE!!!
A must have for Rev War collectors! Over 40 more plates than the original edition, with new captions and info on all the plates! Then drop the button in. All of the crust and dirt will be removed. Do not breathe the vapors, and be sure to do this in a well-ventilated place.
Also, be careful not to put anything metal in your microwave. Tombac buttons are named for the metal they're made from, an alloy of copper and zinc. They come out of the ground with a silvery or gunmetal colored shine. Tombac is brittle, and these buttons are often broken rather than bent by the plough.
They can also be identified by the fact that their backs appear turned, as though made on a lathe; and their shanks are made of brass and applied as a separate piece to their backs. Due to their coloration, some detectorists confuse them with pewter or even silver buttons. In terms of cleaning, I know of no way to remove fertilizer corrosion from tombacs. At best, removing this green corrosion takes some work and elbow grease, and the results are hardly stellar.
On the other hand, Aluminum Jelly seems to cure tombac buttons of light tarnish. Aluminum Jelly can be obtained at most hardware stores.
The end result of a toothpicked flat button: Pewter buttons must be cleaned very carefully. I usually place them in a Ziploc bag immediately after recovering them, to keep them moist, then take them home and soak them in water and gently toothpick them, using extra care around the edges which will typically start to flake over time.
I always toothpick from the center of the button toward the edges the edges will be weaker and more prone to breakusing less pressure as I approach the edge. After cleaning and letting them thoroughly air-dry, it is important to coat them with something to stabilize them. I have heard of others using a thin coat of urethane painted on and then thinned out across the front of the button to preserve them and prevent them from continuing to flake away at the edges, but I still prefer Elmer's glue since it is completely reversible and can be removed by soaking the button in soapy water.
US Military Uniform Buttons Interesting Facts
Again, if you find a button one-or two-piece that has lots of gold gilding that you'd like to preserve, I'd recommend either Aluminum Jelly or Naval Jelly. I do not toothbrush these, since a toothbrush will often remove some of the gilding.
Instead, apply Aluminum or Naval Jelly to the button. Let it sit for about a minute and gently swirl it around with a wet wooden skewer that has been soaking in water to make it less abrasive. The crust will melt away from the surface of the gold.
Use multiple applications until the button's remaining gilding is fully revealed. Once the Aluminum Jelly has done its work and the cleaning is done, I rinse the button thoroughly with a little soap to neutralize the acid in the jelly. I also do this if I am going to stop work on the button for an extended amount of time.
Civil War Buttons
I hold a cake of soap in my other hand, between the faucet and the button, so that the soapy water falls over the button. I don't apply soap directly to the button, but use just the soapy water mix running off my hand from the faucet.
The cleaning process for gilded buttons can take a long time, depending on the detail on the button, but the more care you take with it, the more gold gilding you will have left at the end. I have spent an hour or two cleaning ornate buttons, but I spend comparatively little time with gilded flat buttons. When you swirl with the toothpick, you'll be able to feel the smooth gilding underneath the dirt and crust. Don't push into the gilding, as this will remove it. Instead, just "ride" the toothpick along on top of the gilding.
Natural oil from the fingers, when lightly brushed over the high points of a button, gives contrast to the design. That way you won't pull up the gold that remains. If you need to see the backmark for example, on a gilded two-piece military buttonand intend to treat the front with Aluminum Jelly, then I would advise doing the Aluminum Jelly work on the front first.
Leave all of the dirt and corrosion on the back until last. Then let the button dry completely and use the toothpick method on the back.
Anytime you use water, toothpicking runs the risk of losing the backmark; so, it is important that a button is completely dry, so that the patina will remain in the grooves of the backmark.
This will help to give contrast so that the backmark may be read. Although some folks like to use an olive oil soak on two-piece buttons, I never use olive oil. I have found that olive oil will be absorbed into the button, and then slowly leak out for years. Olive oil will also make the button more fragile. In some cases, even water can cause a two-piece button to disintegrate. So, use your best judgment. If a two-piece button has no gilding, I've started using just a dry toothbrush on these, and I've had good results.
I've then touched up the design with toothpicks as needed, and used the natural oil from my fingers, brushed lightly over the highlights, to bring out the design. Two-piece buttons are all different. I've had the best luck with Aluminum Jelly in cases awhere there is a protective "crust" over the whole button that has served to protect the gilding during the button's long sleep underground. Heavy corrosion and rust globules are another matter entirely, and I have no easy answer for you in those cases.